The Rhine from Source to Sea
- David Lillystone
- 2 days ago
- 3 min read
By David Lillystone
Any keen, or maybe self-delusional, cyclist believes they want to do something different or epic at least once in their cycling career. So, armed with a degree of realism on our capabilities, Paul Dean and I opted for cycling from the source of the River Rhine to its exit into the North Sea at the Hook of Holland.
There have been many stories of the more demanding accomplishments of other club members in this long hot summer but by sharing our experience I hope that others are motivated to grasp their own “something different”.
The Rhine is, historically, Europe's most important waterway; a boundary between countries and empires , shifting national ownership, critical to national and local economies, steeped in differing cultures, architectures and traditions. But in 2026, passports were not required, even for the obligatory crossing into Lichtenstein!
We rode through Switzerland, Austria, Germany, France and the Netherlands, sometimes crossing borders back and forth on the same day. This was reflected in changing architectures and cuisines but the scenery remained breath-taking throughout.
The ride starts officially at the Rhine source at the top of the Oberalp pass from where we descended 1400 meters of hairpins, indulging our inner Tom Pidcocks*, before opening out into fast sweeping curves and open roads . Then we had a few days in the upper Rhine Valley, hugging the river itself on the cycle/footpath. The contrast between our riverside route and the towering mountains within touching distance either side was incredible.
There were 13 in the group, differing ambitions, abilities and bikes! On the road, we split into smaller groups of similar outlook, setting our own pace, enjoying the spectacular scenery and the simple pleasure of different terrain - despite the heat! Did I mention the heat? It was really hot! Good excuse for lots of cold beer, iced drinks and mid ride swim breaks.
One feature that became apparent was the vast work put into managing the river flood plain and using it for commercial purposes ,including hydro electric power. Much of this has been in place for decades or longer - it was a LOT of shovelling!
There were several visual highlights in the mid section including the Rhine Falls at Neehausen of course, and the Rhine Gorge near Koblenz. I was particularly taken by the approach to Strasbourg, along one of the rivers feeder canals for several miles framed by an avenue of century-old Plane Trees every 20 metres, providing highly effective, cooling shade It was a unique and fascinating sight.
The final section into Holland is largely ridden through managed wet land plains with cycle paths atop elevated and wind-swept dykes . The weather had turned dramatically by now with 15-20c reduction in temperature, and heavy squalls . It was not all sunshine cruising, and the last day into Rotterdam ( fascinating city) was a real mix of conditions!
13 days in the saddle and 900 miles is a physical challenge with its own bragging rights, but not eye wateringly so. There are lots of other more demanding cycling ventures, but having celebrated my 68th birthday on the journey I discovered this was just right for me.
The cycling itself was flattering, with many long, straight and fast stretches, with no turns and highly respectable average speeds! I loved it, from start to finish and thought long and hard about exactly why this was, and finally identified some very personal reasons: First, I’m a great fan of military history, and every mile of the Rhine is steeped in it. For me, seeing the river unfold before us was like reading the next page of a European chronicle.
Plus, I lived in Germany for several years in the 80s/90s and I allowed my myself to enjoy those memories (cream cakes, beer and bratwurst sausages- you get the drift!). I saw parts of the country I had long wanted to see and this was very rewarding too.
And finally, I rode this in the company of some good friends, with much conversation and laughter along the way. It doesn’t have to be solitary suffering the whole way!
So, totally different from the hyper endurance of the Ultra Audaxes, the physical brutality of the TransPyrenees, the demands of LEJOG, but still something to be treasured.
Cycling, the sport we all love, has many different guises. I hope you are as successful as us in finding that different adventure.
David and Paul made their journey in August 2026, organised by Green Jersey Cycling
*Just in case you don't know: Thomas Pidcock 27, is a British cyclist who competes in the cyclo-cross, mountain bike & road bike racing disciplines of the sport for the Swiss Pinarello Pro Cycling Team.
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